Cooling

Panasonic PGS could be use to transfer the heat from the FPGA to the Camera Body. It can reduce weight and makes the Camera smaller in the ideal case the Apertus doesn’t need a fan. More Information: http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/electronic-components/protection/pyrolytic-graphite-sheet.aspx Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAEhyY1_czM

A hole can be cut in the PCB to allow a metal plate to touch the back of the sensor (image courtesy of danieel)

Practical experience of cooling down a d450 sensor to sub-zero temperatures with Peltier http://nightskyinfocus.com/diyprojects/canon-450d-dslr-modification

Peltier sensor cooling can be an upgrade pack for Beta

danieel, speaking on KAC-12040 sensor [1]:

uncooled sensor without any thermal management gets to at most 45deg (internal reading).. so you should rather cool/separate the fpga, than care about a sensor (big package with relatively low power)

Sensible advice on thermoelectric cooling: http://www.customthermoelectric.com/TECmounting.html

Heat conductive plastics http://www.ptonline.com/articles/plastics-that-conduct-heat claimed heat conductivity: - new plastics: 10-100 W/mK - cast magnesium: 50-100 W/mK - extrusion grade aluminum: 150 W/mK. New plastics 10x more expensive than normal ones per kg a bit more birttle, have thermal expansion closer to those of electronic components than metal, can be conductive (for shielding) or insulating

Toxitobi merging some of these ideas and adding a few new ones:

1. Flexibility if we go for a solution with heat transmission via heatpipes or watercooling it'll reduce flexibility in designing or changing the body of the camera.

2. If one looks at the results of the cooling of sensor for astrophotogrpahy (d450) it can reduce the sensor noise a lot, making the camera better.

3. For usage of the camera in hot environments a cooling solution is nessesary that goes below the environment temperature.

4. Opening up the Body for air circulation makes waterproofness a problem and in case of an active fan result in noise while shooting.

My Solution would be an internal air-cooling, this means using a sealed body with a fan to keep the air inside moving.

+ No hotspots or damaged hardware

+ Chips or Hardware that are getting to hot can easily be equipped with heatsinks and therefore be cooled via airflow too.

+ water proofness

- noise: maybe still hearable outside

- space: fan and guiding the airflow will take a lot of space

Additionally peltier elements in the body with heatsinks that are keeping the air inside cooler than outside.

+ Cooling is possible e.g. for astrophotgraphy or in the desert

+ When you're in a development area running the camera without body is possible as long as room temperature is okay

+ it's easy to remove and assemble the body because the parts are not connected to each other via heatpipes

+ flexibility if you need more cooling, change the body and add more peltierelements or different cooling solutions

- possibility for condensing water

- space: heatsinks and peltier elements will take a lot of space